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Tourism & Remote Work/May 13, 2025

Capri has two faces – here’s the one you’ve never seen

Capri has two faces – here’s the one you’ve never seen

Photo credit: Alamy via BBC

The Italian island immediately conjures up grand bougainvillea-draped villas and a whitewashed city centre, lined by luxury boutiques. But that’s – literally – only half of the story.

“Bring water,” they said when I announced I’d be hiking the Sentiero dei Fortini (Trail of Little Forts). “There’s nothing out there.”

The six-kilometre cliffside path linking the remains of three 19th-Century Bourbon military outposts was my fourth hike on this craggy Mediterranean island. Somewhere along the rocky, wild rosemary-flocked path while dodging spiky prickly pears, I realised that I’d only seen one other human in two hours. And there were indeed no water sources, aside from a rustic fountain I’d encountered a kilometre back at Fort Mèsola.

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